More than thirty years after hosting its first fishermen, Kiritimati is hotter than ever.

I heard them before I saw them. When giant trevally are chasing bait in shallow water, the frantic reaction produces a distinct spraying sound, like the inside of your vehicle as you pass through the power-rinse of a car wash. The frenzied commotion is caused by thousands of sardines or anchovies or whatever are being chased, all leaving and re-entering the water in a desperate attempt to avoid being plundered by the most savage fish on the flats. If you’re lucky enough to actually be in the water as it’s happening, then you become just another part of this bizarre predatory vortex—you, chasing the fish that are chasing the fish that are falling back in the water like rain.

Read the rest of this feature article in the Spring 2015 Issue. Click here to buy yours now.