All threads that bitch about new, existing, or old members will be posted/relocated here. Keep this shit off the General forum, because no one wants (or cares) to hear your opinions. Now go back to the other forums and post something worthy of reading.
User avatar
By dunk
#517404
Similar issues - got a collar with a "beep" option. I can zap him at variable setting or give him an audible (to humans) but high pitch beep that I substitutes for a zap in many instances. Also a red button for instant full strength - I usually hit this after a beep or two and a low level zap - works every time. If I could find the fukin thing I'd give the model number.

Zapped myself to see also - wow...
User avatar
By fallen513
#517438
Went to a grill-out... wee pooch there that liked to bark & jump. Host/owner of said lass looked as though he was Wii bowling each time he'd mash the no-no button.





No no!






User avatar
By flybug.pa.
#517455
same here , I must use the lowest settings on my Brit and on the Boykin. as soon as they hear the warning beep they each go into the oh shit here it comes again freak out mode. the hardest part is actually getting the controllers right for which dog is which controller.i understand now that there are controllers on the market for 2 dogs in the same unit. too much switch flipping and the like for me. I understand it shocks the owner when he fucks it up. (dogs laughing tails wagging).
By Jed
#517456
There are dogs and there are dogs. My first dog was self trained. He lived in Northern VT and NYC. He almost never was on a leash. He'd walk the streets of mid-town Manhattan unleashed, and would wait at corners for me. I used a lot of hand commands. He would also hunt deer with his pack when the weather was right. My current dog is a nice dog, but obedience is not his thing. He's totally friendly and never barks. Go figure. Both were rescue dogs.

I would not punch the dog. It just doesn't matter to them. I've kicked my dogs full force when they were fighting to break up the fight and they did not even flinch. I've punched them and they just about laughed. Think of training as a game, fun for both of you with some nice treats involved. Establish yourself as the alpha of the pack and let them know what pleases you.

My point, if there is one is that each dog is different. Make the dog your partner, not your slave and he may not be as well trained, but he might be more fun.

Good luck,
jed
User avatar
By fallen513
#517659
I could hook jumper cables to my min pin's balls and throw him in the bathtub, he still ain't listenin'.


Lesson learned.
User avatar
By Redchaser
#517911
[quote="fallen513"]Went to a grill-out... wee pooch there that liked to bark & jump. Host/owner of said lass looked as though he was Wii bowling each time he'd mash the no-no button.





No no!






[/quote]




Why in the fuck did I watch that...holy shit.
User avatar
By flashback
#518169
I've learned a lot reading this thread. Been doing obedience competition for a long time with fox terriers, really challenging. As a dentist, I often use the original shocker, called a pulp vitality tester. Device is placed on the patient's tooth with a grounding wire clasped in patient's hand, button pressed and a current is applied to tooth until patient feels "stimulus." If tooth is responsive the patient's response is, we'll, interesting. This tells dentist if tooth is "vital". Not one of the things I look forward to doing. Never have used a shock collar on a dog.
User avatar
By Muddled Duck
#518208
flashback wrote:I've learned a lot reading this thread. Been doing obedience competition for a long time with fox terriers, really challenging. As a dentist, I often use the original shocker, called a pulp vitality tester. Device is placed on the patient's tooth with a grounding wire clasped in patient's hand, button pressed and a current is applied to tooth until patient feels "stimulus." If tooth is responsive the patient's response is, we'll, interesting. This tells dentist if tooth is "vital". Not one of the things I look forward to doing. Never have used a shock collar on a dog.
Interesting. I know of retriever trainers doing something similar with dogs that appear immune to a shock collar (believe it or not there are dogs, and I've seen it in a few people, that aren't affected the "stimulation" even on the highest setting). The first step is an "ear clip." Basically you run a wire from underneath one of the collar's electrodes and, using a roach clip, attach the other end to the dog's ear. If the dog still appears unaffected by the stimulation, it is next clipped to the lip.
User avatar
By fallen513
#518407
Muddled Duck wrote:
flashback wrote:I've learned a lot reading this thread. Been doing obedience competition for a long time with fox terriers, really challenging. As a dentist, I often use the original shocker, called a pulp vitality tester. Device is placed on the patient's tooth with a grounding wire clasped in patient's hand, button pressed and a current is applied to tooth until patient feels "stimulus." If tooth is responsive the patient's response is, we'll, interesting. This tells dentist if tooth is "vital". Not one of the things I look forward to doing. Never have used a shock collar on a dog.
Interesting. I know of retriever trainers doing something similar with dogs that appear immune to a shock collar (believe it or not there are dogs, and I've seen it in a few people, that aren't affected the "stimulation" even on the highest setting). The first step is an "ear clip." Basically you run a wire from underneath one of the collar's electrodes and, using a roach clip, attach the other end to the dog's ear. If the dog still appears unaffected by the stimulation, it is next clipped to the lip.

*see "jumper cables to balls" statement above
User avatar
By Hogleg
#518423
Muddled Duck wrote:
flashback wrote:I've learned a lot reading this thread. Been doing obedience competition for a long time with fox terriers, really challenging. As a dentist, I often use the original shocker, called a pulp vitality tester. Device is placed on the patient's tooth with a grounding wire clasped in patient's hand, button pressed and a current is applied to tooth until patient feels "stimulus." If tooth is responsive the patient's response is, we'll, interesting. This tells dentist if tooth is "vital". Not one of the things I look forward to doing. Never have used a shock collar on a dog.
Interesting. I know of retriever trainers doing something similar with dogs that appear immune to a shock collar (believe it or not there are dogs, and I've seen it in a few people, that aren't affected the "stimulation" even on the highest setting). The first step is an "ear clip." Basically you run a wire from underneath one of the collar's electrodes and, using a roach clip, attach the other end to the dog's ear. If the dog still appears unaffected by the stimulation, it is next clipped to the lip.
I have one of those dogs. His brother will do a backflip, scream like a bitch and have his feelings hurt for a week with a shock on setting 3 while knucklehead dog just keeps on doing whatever the fuck he wants with sustained shocks on setting 10.

I'm thinking I need a "Spinal Tap" shock collar that goes to 11.
User avatar
By CarelessEthiopian
#569038
Just wanted to follow up on this.

We axed the collar. It worked to a degree, but ultimately I didn't like shocking my dog, even at a very low level.

For us, treats has been the way to go. Positive reinforcement, rather than negative. Treats have worked way better than the collar. I'm talking high quality extra special treats; bacon, turkey, cheese, hot dogs, jerky. Treat early and often. It has made for much happier dogs and humans.
User avatar
By Lando
#569053
Treats for Clyde saved my balls.

Literally.
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